the faithful
the coalition of the willing
the unwitting Axis of Epstein class warriors
drooling something about ‘conspiracy theorists’
cancelling their Maldives spring holiday
die suddenly
or fade away painfully:
immune system collapse
brain haemorrhage
heart attack
turbo cancer
nothing-to-see-here blood clots
no-idea-where-it-came-from joint inflammation
financial portfolio ruination.
Them educated experts of empire
forever trusting
forever dutiful (for promotion)
for comfort
for modernity
(revolving-door-cowards) ––
I sit with young Israelis
in a German bakery
in northern India
their coffee arriving
to cigarettes
and laughter
in dream catcher apparel
I read Krishnamurti
with chai and jaggery
“Religion,” he speaks,
“…[mostly] a matter
of propaganda, of
vested interest, with
much property, with a
great hierarchical,
bureaucratic system
of spirituality.”
I can see
the destruction
of Israel
in its destruction
of Palestine –
for, can a home
(even 77 years old)
ever be home
if murder is required
to sleep in it?
My chai
a comfort of sorts
with sweet Israeli youth
leaving the promise
in high numbers
drifting here
with roadside
cannabis
unsettlement
“The word ‘individuality’ means ‘indivisible’, not fragmented. Individuality means a totality, the whole, and the word ‘whole’ means healthy, holy.” Krishnamurti
While in Nepal we briefly met this man.
Here’s a rough translation of what he sings (via a free translation app and our own poetic license):
Hello to everyone greetings with good luck Greetings everyone greetings to all I am living for you Loving at heart for I sing elegant Nepal Greetings everyone greetings with good wishes
Patrick later wrote this poem inspired by the brief encounter.
Minstrel
Hello
greetings, g’day
I am the listener
who feels your life
bind to mine
in the moment of
your playing
You appear
from some place
at the bus
when it stops
to let out
we stabled travellers
to urinate
Your music
is my old people’s too
(when we were not fragmented)
loose and wild
inside me
raw and free
dancing gaily at fear
I feel renewal
in this land slipping
bus shaken day
in hearing
your pleasure
to sing and
string
It was very hard to leave our free-camping sanctuary with our freshwater pool streaming onto Narragon Beach just down from the Clump Point jetty where we pulled in our evening hauls of fish.
It was also hard to leave our lovely new and not so new friends.
We had our last ride in to Mission Beach with the delightful Tom Dean, the errant wayfarer, before once again setting our compass north.
Our restored senses went immediately into shock after we got back on the Bruce Highway. Trucks, motorhomes, caravans, misnamed ‘eco’ tourists, roadkill, roadside memorials, anthropogenic garbage and sugarcane mayhem all came flooding back to raze the peace and make us harden back up for another dose of digi-industrial reality. Needless to say we took the longer back road to Innisfail, via south Johnstone and Japoon, which rewarded us with this little haul of free fruit,
and a croc safe (at least in the dry season) swimming hole.
Further down the road we stopped to investigate some of the hidden ingredients in conventional banana farming.
This farmer was using two different pesticides: Echo 720, a fungicide and known carcinogen and the herbicide Gramoxone 250, which is an extremely dangerous chemical. The active constituent in Gramoxone 250 is paraquat dichloride, which is banned in 32 countries including China and all the EU nations including Switzerland where Syngenta, the chemical company that produces it, has its headquarters. This chemical has been linked to the development of Parkinson’s disease.
What is incredible is that bananas are considered ‘health food’ in Australia! When we’ve been stuck for food and have had to resort to supermarkets on this trip we routinely ask one of the staff where the ‘health food’ and ‘organic’ foods are. These minuscule couple of shelves contain products that have too much packaging or are also packed with hidden nasties such as refined sugar.
To paraphrase Michael Pollan: If it comes from a plant eat it; if it’s made in a plant don’t. The sugar industry in South Johnstone had certainly made its mark on the town, the cane trains surge down the main drag like cocaine through a major vein.
We just keep thinking: what would it look like if the Queensland Government pulled its subsidies from cane farmers, taxed refined sugars like they do tobacco and transferred the revenue to organic food producers or farms transitioning to organic food, bringing the price of organic food down so as everyone could purchase it? Imagine the savings made to public health! Imagine the beautiful ruination of predatory pharmaceutical companies and irresponsible doctors who have built their businesses on an innutritious, immune depleting food system! And then there are the environmental questions.
Imagine if soils were no longer mined to grow a substance that isn’t necessary and that is causing so much ill health. Can you imagine in these razed fields as food forests of Maccadamia nuts, Davidson Plums, paw paws, bananas, grapefruits, oranges and a hundred other fruits all grown as a polyculture with leguminous plants interplanted, used as chop and drop fertilisers, where thick humus would form, repairing the soil and its mycorrhizal strata, and where perennial groundcovers would spread out after the first years of pioneering annual weeds doing their work to repatriate the earth, where a billion organisms live and build soil structure, and who through rigorous competition fight off the threat of dominating species, so as no pesticides, no corporations making decisions about our health, no organic certification was necessary because agricultural pesticides were all banned and common sense prevailed? But for now this is the present: millions of acres of completely unnecessary sugar cane.
Because Woody has never had refined sugar, his taste buds are open to all foods and their sensations. Whereas we older ones in the tribe may have a few blue quandongs here and there, Woody seeks them out with a passion. He’ll eat the tart ones, sour ones, mildly sweet over ripe ones, as well as the way past desirable ones.
He’s becoming the most enthusiastic forager of us all. He’s also partial to autonomus meat. At the free-camping spot at Babinda, Patrick hand speared a small black fish for bait and used it to catch this lovely creature on a 40-pound hand line:
an Australian long-finned eel (Anguilla reinhardti). We made a fire and cooked it on the coals for around 12 minutes each side. It was heavenly dining after peeling back the bitter skin and revealing the extraordinary white, moist flesh.
Artist as Family gave blessings to this powerful water creature and slept with the watery whirlings of the eel inside us. The next day we packed up early,
and took to the road. Our long-finned fuel powering us all the way into Cairns where we stayed with this delightful family:
Meet warm showers hosts Sarah, Oscar and Renee, who we look forward to spending more time with when we return to Cairns. After a night of great conversation, games, showers and delicious shared food, we picked up some supplies from the community food co-op and from a local park,
and headed north again. Sarah and Oscar rode ahead to steer our departure as Zero was having an RDO as our biological GPS.
One species that we have camped with everywhere, been stung by, admired their architecture but so far failed to try out as a bush food is the green ant (Oecophylla smaragdina).
These amazing fruitarians are everywhere and we’ve now incorporated them into our everyday diet as a robust free food species. Like whitchetty grubs they have a high fat content; perfect as a cycling fuel. They are a zingy citrus-like edible, which is not surprising as they love citrus. We have all, including Woody, learnt to catch them by the head with our pincers, killing them instantly and popping them whole into our mouths.
We only got as far as Smithfield, an outer suburb of Cairns, and Patrick’s front wheel rim spilt open, possibly as a result of his eating too many green ants.
While waiting for the repairs we walked for a few hours in an industrial wasteland along the A1 and found these delicious ripe bush passionfruits (Passiflora foetida).
They oozed the devine right off the vine: no built religious environment was necessary to partake in this godly moment.
We were rather abruptly asked to leave the bike shop in Smithfield, prompting Patrick to write the following poem from our campsite at Unity Reef.
It felt right to be kicked out of the bicycle shop in Cairns. We had coveted all their back room power points with our touring stench. Baby and dog running in and out of the place unsettling the gloss while we waited for the expensive repair. But perhaps it was really the ‘G20 – – – – LIES’ writ large across one of our tail panniers that prompted the call for our exile by the boss. After all the city was in feverish preparation eager to celebrate the international visitors with a cultural festival of entertainers known as ‘the arts’.
Even if our schooling system today does its best to breed out the inquistive and critical in the population this doesn’t mean that the forthcoming G20 bankers get-together in Cairns isn’t a pox on the planet. But obviously many disagree, especially in Port Douglas where we came across this holidaying couple near the beach. When we asked the lady wearing it about her singlet she boasted it cost only $3 from K-Mart. Is it a joke? Are we missing the irony? Where do you start with such intransigence to life and the suffering of others for the sake of a $3 joke?
No doubt G20 finance delegates will flock to Port Douglas with all its monetary shmaltz. We on the other hand couldn’t wait to leave, legging it back to the A1 after a picnic lunch with fake artisan bread, temporarily being split up by big sugar before the town of Mossman in Kuku Yalanji country, on the way to the Daintree.
Not far on we met this fantastic duo who were heading south and who are working on a very exciting bicycle touring project. It was lovely to meet you Simon and Alia!
Just nearby we found a laden grapefruit tree, loaded up, gave some to our fellow tourers before pushing on to find some ripe guavas, which we have commonly picked all along the east coast from as far south as Kempsey.
We camped the night at Newell Beach and the following day arrived at the village of Daintree.
Prone to regular flooding and therefore constant change the Daintree River is an ecological hive of activity.
We adults were as wide-eyed and excited as Woody when we saw fishing birds such as this pied cormorant (Phalacrocorax varius),
the numerous reptilian water critters such as this grand male estuarine crocodile (Crocodylus porous),
and these common tree snakes, sunning themselves.
While in the Daintree village we also learned more about Far North Queensland plant life, such as native taro (Colocasia esculenta var. aquatilis), which requires much lengthy preparation in order to make the tubers edible,
and Woody, completely unprompted, collected up all the Kuku Yalanji forest delights he knew including blue quandongs, satin ash fruit, peanut tree pods and hibiscus flower.
We were fortunate enough to meet Linda, a Kuku Yalanji elder, who was collecting freshwater mussels (Velesunio ambiguous) from the river. Linda told us that there are many important Aboriginal places around the village including a burial site that the local historical society is simply not interested in marking. Daintree village seems to be another case of white history told, black history conveniently disappeared.
We are resting up here for a few days, readying ourselves for the final northern leg, up the Broomfield Track to Cooktown, which is going to be quite a challenge from all accounts. We hope you are meeting all your challenges too, Dear Reader, and we thank you, once again, for joining us on our adventure.
